Pocket Hole Joinery
How Pocket Hole Joinery Works
Pocket hole joinery drills an angled hole into one board and drives a self-tapping screw into the mating piece. The joint needs no glue clamping time and works for face frames, cabinet boxes, shelves, and furniture. This collection is all Kreg: jigs from the R3 to the 720PRO, the corded Foreman machine, the cordless Rebel 20V joiner, stepped drill bits, square drive bits, clamps, and screw kits for indoor and outdoor projects.
What to Look For
- Material thickness. Kreg jigs here are set up for 1/2-in. to 1-1/2-in. stock. Set the jig and the drill bit stop collar to the board thickness every time.
- Volume of work. Portable jigs suit occasional projects. The Foreman machine and Rebel joiner speed up repeat drilling for shops building many cabinets.
- Screws for the job. Use the weather-resistant outdoor screw kit for decks and patio furniture, and No. 14 pan head screws with HD jigs for heavy framing.
- Clamping. Face clamps, auto-adjust clamps, and the right angle clamp hold joints flush while you drive screws.
Shop pocket hole joinery tools at The Tool Nut, an authorized Kreg dealer since 1994, with free shipping on most orders and rewards points on every purchase.
Pocket Hole Joinery FAQ
Are pocket hole joints strong enough for cabinets?
Yes, for face frames, cabinet boxes, and most furniture. The screw pulls the joint tight while glue cures, and many builders skip clamping entirely. Kreg sells a Basic Cabinetmaking booklet that walks through building cabinets with pocket holes.
Why do pocket holes need a stepped drill bit?
The stepped bit drills a wide pocket for the screw head and a narrow pilot for the shank in one pass. The stop collar sets depth so the screw tip lands in the right spot. Replace a dull bit to keep holes clean, and use the left-hand bit on machines that call for it, such as the DK3100.